Conrad Anker

Conrad Anker

Conrad Anker is an American rock climber, mountaineer, and author famous for his challenging ascents in the high Himalaya and Antarctica. He is a member of The North Face climbing team and also works closely with Timex Expedition as brand ambassador. In 1999 he was a key member of the search team which located the remains of legendary British climber George Mallory on Mount Everest. Anker is the climber who spotted Mallory's body. He lives in Bozeman, Montana.


The First Conquest of an 8,000-Meter Peak

by Maurice Herzog, Foreward by Conrad Anker

Open Road, 2011

Mountaineer Maurice Herzog gives a gripping firsthand account of one of the most daring climbing expeditions in history.

Annapurna I is the name given to the 8,100-meter mountain that ranks among the most forbidding in the Himalayan chain. Dangerous not just for its extreme height but for a long and treacherous approach, its summit proved unreachable until 1950, when a group of French mountaineers made a mad dash for its peak. They became the first men to accomplish the feat, doing so without oxygen tanks or any of the modern equipment that contemporary climbers use.

The adventure nearly cost them their lives. Maurice Herzog dictated this firsthand account of the remarkable trek from a hospital bed as he recovered from injuries sustained during the climb. An instant bestseller, it remains one of the most famous mountaineering books of all time, and an enduring testament to the power of the human spirit.

Mount Everest—The Reconnaissance

Conrad Anker Signature Series

Bibliolife, 2010

In 1921, the British Reconnaissance Expedition, led by Col. Howard–Bury, ascended the northern and eastern slopes of Mount Everest, the world’s “third pole.” Spearheading this fateful adventure was George Mallory, the famous mountaineer whose body was discovered on Everest in 1999. Their mission: to discover if an ascent to the peak were possible from Tibet, the Western world’s only access at the time. This is the chronicle of the obstacles they surmounted, as well as early mountaineering techniques that paved the way for the 1922 expedition. With a special foreword by Conrad Anker, the mountaineer who discovered Mallory’s body in 1999, this book was on-site text for the filming of The Wildest Dream, in theaters in 2010.

Mount Everest—The Assault

Conrad Anker Signature Series

Bibliolife, 2010

When it comes to mountain climbing, designing a successful summit is both a work of art and a labor of love. No one knows this better than Conrad Anker, who handpicked these books to accompany him on his 2007 Everest summit in pursuit of what George Mallory and his partner Andrew Irvine might have experienced on their last climb.

Expeditionary Charles Granville Bruce, brigadier-general and president of the Alpine Club, led this first British ascent with the mission to summit Everest. With him was George Mallory, who had participated in the reconnaissance mapping mission to Everest in 1921. A year later, with a total of 160 men, theirs was the first expedition to use bottled oxygen; their equipment and clothing were crude, even suicidal, by modern standards; yet their daring, tenacity, and careful records paved the way for all future endeavors to summit the world's tallest mountain.

With a special foreword by Conrad Anker, the mountaineer who discovered Mallory's body in 1999, this book was an on-site text for the filming of The Wildest Dream, in theaters in 2010.

The Lost Explorer

Simon & Schuster Trade, 1999

This is the adventure story of the year -- how Conrad Anker found the body of George Mallory on Mount Everest, casting an entirely new light on the mystery of the explorer who may have conquered Everest seventy-five years ago.

On June 8, 1924, George Leigh Mallory and Andrew "Sandy" Irvine were last seen climbing toward the summit of Mount Everest. Clouds soon closed around them, and they vanished into history. Ever since, mountaineers have wondered whether they reached the summit twenty-nine years before Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay.

On May 1, 1999, Conrad Anker, one of the world's strongest mountaineers, discovered Mallory's body lying facedown, frozen into the scree and naturally mummified at 27,000 feet on Everest's north face. The condition of the body, as well as the artifacts found with Mallory, including goggles, an altimeter, and a carefully wrapped bundle of personal letters, are important clues in determining his fate. Seventeen days later, Anker free-climbed the Second Step, a 90-foot sheer cliff that is the single hardest obstacle on the north ridge. The first expedition known to have conquered the Second Step, a Chinese team in 1975, had tied a ladder to the cliff, leaving unanswered the question of whether Mallory could have climbed it in 1924. Anker's climb was the first test since Mallory's of the cliff's true difficulty. In treacherous conditions, Anker led teammate Dave Hahn from the Second Step to the summit.

Reflecting on the climb, Anker explains why he thinks Mallory and Irvine failed to make the summit, but at the same time, he expresses his awe at Mallory's achievement with the primitive equipment of the time. Stunningly handsome and charismatic, Mallory charmed everyone who met him during his lifetime and continues to fascinate mountaineers today. He was an able writer, a favorite of the Bloomsbury circle, and a climber of legendary gracefulness. The Lost Explorer is the remarkable story of this extraordinarily talented man and of the equally talented modern climber who spearheaded a discovery that may ultimately help solve the mystery of Mallory's disappearance.

Read Conrad's essay "Certain Traits are necessary for Leadership," published in the Bozeman Daily Chronicle on May 17, 2011.

Conrad Anker and the Discovery Of Mallory's Body | May 1, 1999

The goal of the Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition of 1999 was to discover evidence of whether George Mallory and Andrew Irvine had been the first to summit Mt. Everest in their ill-fated attempt of June 8-8, 1924. The expedition was organized by regular Everest expedition leader Eric Simonson and informed by researcher Jochen Hemmleb, with a team of climbers from the U.S., Great Britain, and Germany. Hemmleb's investigations of sketchy reports of earlier sightings and photographs had led him to identify what he believed was the area in which Irvine's body lay, some distance below where his ice axe had been found by Percy Wyn-Harris on the expedition led by Hugh Ruttledge in 1933. The team hoped in particular to find a camera on Irvine's body which, had the pair been successful, should have contained a picture of the summit. Within hours of commencing the search on 1 May 1999, Conrad Anker found a body on the North Face, at 8,155 m; but to their surprise it was that of Mallory, not Irvine.

The Endless Knot

Best friends Alex Lowe and Conrad Anker were overcome by an avalanche while climbing in the Tibetan Himalaya, only Conrad survived. Suffering from Survivors Guilt, Conrad married Alex's widow Jenni. Now Conrad and Jenni try to find meaning beyond tragedy with a mountaineering safety school for Sherpas.

Return to the Outdoors with Conrad Anker

Conrad Anker is a world renowned mountaineer, big wall climber, author, and conservationist. He shares a vivid memory of one of his earliest outdoor moments and why he is inspired to help conserve the wild places he loves.

Those interested in writing to Mr. Anker can do so by clicking here.

Visit Conrad Anker's personal website for the latest information on his events and activities. And say Hi to him on Facebook.